Junebug’s Barbecue

Where Hill Country Smoke Turns into Backyard Magic

by Kimberly A. Suta
photos by Chad Wadsworth

If there’s a scent that can stop time (not to mention passersby) in Fredericksburg, it’s the slow curl of post oak smoke drifting across the Albert Hotel’s great lawn—enticing all near or far. Follow it, and you’ll land at Junebug’s Barbecue—a lively, open-air smokehouse that feels like a backyard party lit with Hill Country spirit, but delivers the kind of craft you only get when champions are working diligently behind the scenes. With picnic tables, cold beer and oftentimes live music, it’s equally casual, communal and playful while steadfastly serving up some of the finest BBQ in Texas. If you’re looking for brisket that melts in your mouth, ribs that glisten and sausage that slaps (as the kids say), then you’re headed in the right direction. 

Junebug’s sits on a piece of Fredericksburg history, the former Brockmann-Kiehne House, built in 1870 with dual parlors, a cellar, a kitchen and a classic German Texan breezeway at its center. Generations later, the space has been lovingly reimagined without losing its bones. The front porch got a fresh coat, the trees grew friendlier shade, a small stage went up, as well as two custom Mill Scale smokers built in Lockhart—affectionately named Carmelite and Nina after Justin’s adored grandmothers—that were rolled onto the property as if they’d always belonged there. Now the old B-K House is the heart of Junebug’s— not just any ol’ barbecue joint but a place that honors history while creating an entirely new legacy.

The soul behind all of it is Justin Spencer—known to pretty much everyone as Junebug. He’s New Waterloo’s Head of Food & Beverage, a competition pitmaster with the credentials to back it up, and the steady hand guiding the menu. His team, Ribdiculous Bar-B-Krewe, won the 2023 Memphis in May World Championship for best barbecue (ribs), an achievement that still resonates in his voice with equal parts pride and disbelief.

“We worked for that title for thirteen years,” he said. “Winning it felt like a dream we’d been chasing for so long it became a part of us.”

What led him to open a barbecue restaurant in the Albert Hotel’s backyard seems almost destiny-level serendipity. During an early walk-through of the property, long before walls were finished and paint was dry, Justin remembers pausing in the yard. 

“I looked around and said, ‘This looks like a barbecue restaurant,’” he recalled. An associate standing nearby agreed, “It does—and you’re gonna to do it.” Construction delays pushed the opening further than expected, but when Junebug’s finally lit the pits last year, it felt like the right thing arriving at just the right moment.

The menu at Junebug’s is a love letter to Central Texas barbecue—straightforward, unfussy yet confident. “We didn’t want to get too esoteric out of the gate,” Justin explains. “We wanted a real Hill Country joint. Brisket, ribs, turkey, sausage — the classics. We’ll play more as we grow.”

Even those classics come with immense mindfulness. There are two rib styles—the traditional spare ribs and a take on Justin’s competition baby backs glazed with honey, brown sugar and hot sauce—smoked until the bark settles into a deep mahogany and finished with a thin brush of house barbecue sauce to make them shine. “They get tacky, sticky, sweet, spicy… all the things you want,” Justin explained. “Those ribs are a big part of our story.”

The sausages, as you might expect, are made in-house, no shortcuts here either. It’s a process that stretches across three days. “We make two types… the OG beef-pork blend using our brisket and pork trimmings, and a jalapeño cheddar made with Tillamook cheese,” he shared. 

Then there’s the turkey breast—a surprising crowd favorite, according to Justin, both silky and lean with an aromatic butteriness. “It’s the sleeper,” he said proudly. “Turkey can be under the radar but it’s been a big hit for us. It’s absolutely fantastic!”

And the sides aren’t just an afterthought. In fact, they elevate the entire experience, thanks in part to Justin’s collab with Michelin-starred chef Michael Fojtasek of Olamaie. Their long-term friendship and shared projects led to an obvious partnership. “I’m not a trained chef,” Justin said. “I wanted someone who could help us build sides that really sang, and we put a lot of great care into creating them.”

What emerged are dishes that respect barbecue tradition but added refinement. The coleslaw is bright and layered, with herbs and shaved jalapeños folded into a light creaminess that feels crisp rather than heavy. The potato salad blends mustard and mayo, punched up with whole grain mustard as a nod to Fredericksburg’s German heritage. Of course, they offer the ubiquitous Mac-and-cheese, BBQ beans and green beans, but everything is scratch-made with high quality ingredients, local when possible, and intentional. These are the kinds of dishes that you crave long after your tray is empty.

Next—desserts come from pastry chef Keidel Hughes, whose seasonal pies—often served in rustic, bake-shop rectangles with flavors such as blackberry, peach, raspberry and (currently) pecan—have already garnered a loyal following. But the treat that sparks the most excitement might be the oh-so-clever Cherry Bourbon Coke popsicles, a cross between nostalgia and mischief, and a boozy riff on the saloon’s frozen whiskey and Coca-Cola.

The setting amplifies the food in all the right ways. Picnic tables sit beneath shade sails and string lights, with fans humming overhead and a trough of icy beer waiting nearby. There’s a water tower, a small stage for live music, and an indoor area tucked into the old Sunday House. And the star of the show—the pit room—sits just behind it all, where Justin and pitmaster Jerek Lara (formerly of Brick Vault at the Gage Hotel) coax magic from the Mill Scale sisters who never seem to sleep.

The vibe is unmistakably Fredericksburg—relaxed, warm, welcoming. Locals blend with hotel guests, weekenders, families, wine country wanderers, and those aforementioned passersby who catch a whiff of smoke and follow it to their own finger-lickin’-good destinies. The crowd shifts, but the spirit stays the same.

“We wanted it to feel like a no-fuss, fun backyard barbecue party,” affirmed Justin. “The team is a huge part of what makes this place what it is. And, for me, being in the pit room cooking with Jerek and the rest of the team is just really rewarding… working with my hands and seeing that final product.” 

Currently, Junebug’s is open Wednesday through Sunday, attracting barbecue aficionados, curious travelers, casual grazers, and everyone else who appreciates good smoke on a perfect afternoon. Live local musicians roll in occasionally. Cold beer is always waiting. And as Junebug’s promises, the idyllic sunsets are always free. 

This BBQ joint may be new, but it feels instantly rooted—like it grew naturally from the soil beneath the old B-K House, bridging 150 years of Fredericksburg history with fresh smoke. For Junebug’s Barbecue, the charm isn’t just in the food. It’s in the way the smoke drifts through the air at sunset, in the sound of kids laughing near the water tower, in the way conversations stretch long after plates are cleared and popsicle sticks lie scattered on picnic tables. Justin and his incredible team have crafted more than just a restaurant—they’ve created a little bit of Hill Country magic. 

JUNEBUG’S BBQ
205 E Austin St, Fredericksburg, TX 78624
junebugsbbq.com